ComediansLong, flowing wigs and woven extensions dominate the catwalks of the massively popular beauty competitions of Coat D'Ivoire for years.
Competitors in the West African nation often spend a huge amount of money on their appearance, from outfits to hairstyles – with very few choosing the natural look.
After more than six decades, there were only two remarkable exceptions, the most native of Kuasi, which took the title of Miss Ivorsko coast in 2022 -it looked shiny with its short natural hair, with the crown becoming its only ornament.
Her victory was not only unusual in Cotta d'Ivoire, but around the world, where Western beauty standards are often the desired species for those who come into competitions and for judges.
The changes slowly crawl – last December Angélique Angarni -Filopon, from the French Caribbean island of Martinica, made titles when she was crowned Miss France, mainly because of her age – she was 34 – and also wore short Afro hair.
But this year the organizers of the Ivoria competition have been shaking things from the beginning.
Wigs, fabrics and hair extensions are prohibited by the preliminary stages of the race, which are held in 13 cities across the country (as well as two abroad for those in the diaspora).
“We want the candidates to be natural – whether with braid or straightening hair, it must be their own. The beauty must be raw,” Victor Japabi, chairman of the Committee for organizing Miss Ivorsko Coast D'IVire, before the BBC.
Kot D'Ivoire is the only African country to apply the ban on a national competition.
Japabi said that the organizers of the Coast D'Ivoire have long been trying to promote a more natural appearance -for example, cosmetic surgery is not -not and lightening the skin frowns.
“This year we decided to really show the natural beauty of these young women,” he said.
Other changes have also been implemented, such as allowing slightly shorter women to compete – the minimum is already 1.67 million (5.4 feet), increasing the age by three years to 28 and – essential – lowering the entrance fee by more than $ 30 (£ 25) to $ 50.
“This change in the criteria is because we noticed that these young women put a lot of money to participate, and it becomes a bit of budget drain.”
When the BBC joins the first preliminary competition in Daloa, the main city in the western Hout -Sassandra region, a competitor enjoyed the new rules -feeling that it gave it a bigger chance of success because he prefers not to wear wigs.
“I would see other girls with long, artificial hair, and they looked so beautiful,” said 21-year-old Emanuel Dali, a real estate agent, in front of the BBC.
“This rule gives me more pride as a woman – like an African woman.”
This move, aimed at celebrating natural African beauty, has caused a lively debate across the country, where wigs and extensions are popular.
As a fashion choice, many women love creativity that allows them wigs and fabrics. They also serve as what is called “protective style”, which means minimizing daily pulling and pulling hair, which can cause fracture.
This was reflected by some Daloa competitors who believe the rule eliminates an element of personal expression.
“I'm a wig fan. I love wigs,” said a racer and makeup artist Astrid Menecu. The 24-year-old told the BBC that it was originally shocked by the wireless, without lengthening.
“I didn't expect this rule! But now? I like my hair and that's good.”
The new rule made competitors think more about beauty concepts – and changed some opinions, such as those of Laetitia Mouroufie.
“Last year I had extensions because I thought it meant beauty,” a 25-year-old student told the BBC.
“This year I feel more confident that I am myself.”
If the competition affects attitudes outside the world of the competition, it can have huge economic consequences.
Human hair wigs, which can last for years, if properly care, can vary in the price of approximately $ 200 to $ 4,000, while synthetic costs about $ 10 to $ 300.
The Kot D'Ivoire's hair industry costs more than $ 300mA, with wigs and fabrics being a significant share of this market.
“This rule is not good for us,” Angroi said, a 30-year-old hairdresser in Daloa, before the BBC.
“Many women love wigs. This will hurt our business and we make more money when we work with wigs and fabrics.”
In her salon, the adhesive will be used to carefully attach wigs to make them look more natural and women will spend hours in fabrics and extensions.
It shows how deeply rooted the wig culture is in West Africa, despite the natural hair movement, which has been gaining momentum among black women around the world over the last decade.
Natural hair products have become much more accessible and the natural effects of hair are spread on social media around the world with tips on how to manage and stylize natural hair, which can take time.
It was considered unprofessional to wear your hair naturally and it would be unusual to see black female television stars on the screen or executive directors in the meeting room with natural hair.
According to Florence Erlage Nanga, a specialist in hair and scalp in the main Ivori city of Abidjan, this is still the case in the d'Ivory.
“Turn on the TV (here) and you will see almost every journalist wearing a wig,” the trichologist told the BBC.
“These beauty improvements are fashionable, but they can also cause problems – such as alopecia or scalp infections,” she warned.
With preliminary circles, arguments about whether competitions should set beauty rules or women should decide such things for themselves continue.
The result may be that there is more than taking the two in an Ivory Coast, which allows women to switch styles – between natural hair and wigs and fabrics.
Japabi said the feedback he received under the new rules was “exceptional” and clearly showed that he had an influence.
“Everyone greets us. Everyone, even from abroad. I get WhatsApp emails and messages from everywhere congratulate us that we want to go back to our roots.”
He said no decision was made whether the wig ban would be applied to the 15 athletes who reach the final of Miss Ivoren Beach 2025.
This extravagance will be held at a hotel in Abidjan at the end of June and will be broadcast on national television.
“If it works, we will continue and continue this initiative in the coming years,” said Japabi.
For Doria Corey, who continued to wear a baptized Miss Hout-Sassandra, her crown is even more important: “Winning with natural hair shows the true beauty of African women.”
I did, if he said he was moving away with something even more pronounced -self -esteem: “I have not won, but I feel proud. This is me.”
Additional reporting from Nicolas Negoce from BBC and Noel Ebrin Brou in Abidjan.
Getty Images/BBC